HOOKS, HEADS & ETC...
FISH HOOKS: (SOLD
These super strong hooks are made with the wall climber
in mind. All Fish Hooks are made from 4130 Cro-Moly steel and hot
formed to a diameter of 2 inches. The tip is hand ground to a chisel-like
point that is 3/8 of an inch wide. Final heat treating makes this
hook strong enough to be left as protection on the most demanding
pitches. We also offer a larger version of the standard FISH Hook,
known as the "CAPTAIN HOOK". The overall
diameter of the "Captain Hook" is 3 inches, from tip to
spine. Don't get caught short out there on a horror show, take both
sizes to be sure. Sold Out
here for our Hook FAQ's
RING ANGLE CLAW
Before there were ever any big hooks commercially available,
these were the standard of the day. In Yosemite Valley there were
many of these old "ring angle" pitons up on the cliffs that
eventually found a new lease on life as a big aid hook. These old
school hooks were crafted into a pleasing shape by putting them in
a fire grate in Camp 4 and beating them with a hammer to get the desired
shape. They were also famous for opening up at the most inopportune
times. Fast forward about 35 years and now we are making these under
controlled conditions complete with a heat treating operation for
strength. These are hand formed and shaped from brand new ring angle
pitons. Own a working piece of history! $25.00 each
FISH HEADS/CIRCLE HEADS:
The FISH Heads and Circle Heads
we manufacture are made with Nicopress sleeves and machines to ensure
the quality of the swage. The smaller sizes (#1- 3) have copper heads,
and the larger sizes (#4- 6) have aluminum heads to give them extra
holding power. The circle heads are for horizontal placements or roof
seams. All sizes are now available as "Double Heads",($2.60
each) plus we've added some super sticky #2 Aluminum heads to
the line. Ask for your favorites! $2.25ea.
No need for a bunch of circle heads on your rack for the
one random placement you might encounter. Take a ClusterBomb and have
all the standard sizes on one loop.
here for our Fish Head FAQ's
Get big savings on these essential wall goodies. This Sack-O-Heads
will get you wall ready in a hurry. Each Sack-O-Heads contains: 6
#1 Copper heads, 10 #2 Copper heads 6 #2 Aluminum heads, 7 #3 Copper
heads 5 #3 Aluminum heads, 5 #4 Aluminum heads, 2 #5 Aluminum heads,
2 #6 Aluminum heads, 5 #2 Rivet hangers, and 3 #3 Rivet hangers. Plus,
four mixed Circle Heads for your nightmare pleasure. Check it out!
That's a total of 55 heads. Land these babies on your wall rack and
"head" out to the realm of the absurd. Happy pasting! $109.00
These rivet hangers are made to Nicopress specifications and are of
the cinch loop design. We offer three sizes, #1 at 1/16th of an inch
cable, #2 at 3/32nds of an inch cable, and #3 at 1/8th of an inch
cable. Use the #1 size on maximum dice, #2 size for virtually all
rivets encountered on most wall routes. The #3 size is for putting
over substantial rivets or bolt studs, perhaps at an anchor, or for
whipping out when you are really scared on monster rivet ladders.
way to really "paste" that seam. Place and use as a normal
head, then slide the floating sleeve down the cable until you find
another place to paste. Two pastes are better than one. We make these
a bit longer than our regular heads to give you more chances to find
a good spot for the second head. Available in all sizes. $2.60
| HOOKING TIP:
When moving onto a hook, keep your lead hand over the hook body.
This will help keep it steady until your full weight is on it,
and will keep some teeth in your head should it "pop"
off the rock unexpectedly.
Instead of using the un-precise head of your hammer to place
heads in seams, use a very blunt chisel on the larger sizes.
If you plan on placing a bunch of little heads, bring a dull
center punch also. With these tools you can paste heads with
surgical precision. You'll want it. Another option is to buy
our HeadMaster Kit. It has all the devices needed for a paste-fest.
Each tools use is outlined ad nauseum in the instructions. Another
good idea is to always clean the groove the head is going into
before trying to place it. The holding power will be much increased
in most cases.
This item is kinda silly when you actually see it, but it could save
you tons of grief on a beat-up rivet ladder. Originally designed for
the Dawn Wall on El Cap, this rivet hanger enables you to use rivets
that only have a few thousands-of-an-inch clearance from the wall.
Even a broken Rawl Stud is no match for a Doubloon---just hang the
Doubloon on the last exposed thread and apply cautious weight---Bingo!
Your'e on that sucker and barely even shaking. Here's the kicker---these
Doubloons are pretty darn strong and make those #1 wireds over rivets
look foolish. $6.00 ea.
THE COOL JERK:
The Cool Jerk is a length of 5/32" cable, 32" long, with
a loop swaged into each end. Use it to clean Heads, RURPs, and some
pins by clipping into the piece and looping the other end over your
hammer head. Take a wild swipe at the air and when this baby comes
taut, action is assured. The low stretch of the cable, coupled with
the velocity of the hammer mass make for a mighty force at the offending
piece. Plus, on those rare occasions when the piece rifles out and
the whole ensemble hits you in the arm, it gives you something to
think about besides your next lead. Think of it as "distraction
through pain" therapy. $6.50 ea.
Ready for sick kicks? The HeadMaster kit is for you. This kit contains
all the specialized tools you need for sick C-heading action. Each
kit has: A "Chisel", large and dull for #3 - #5 heads; 1
"Anteater Punch" for #2 and #3 heads, 1 Mini Punch for #1
heads, 1 "ButterKnife" chisel for removing old copper from
the crack, and an instruction sheet full of tips and methods certain
to keep your pants un-soiled on your next heading pitch. Each tool
is hand modified for its specific purpose and they all sport a "keeper
leash" so you don't lose the tool if you go for a big ride. $34.00
HEADMASTER TIPS: Although not included in the kit, a small wire
brush will come in real handy for cleaning lichen and effluvium
out of the crack. The cleaner the crack is, the stronger the bond
between the head and the rock will be. The key to using this or
any tool is practice. Try placing heads in the most improbable
of places and then apply weight to them. You just might be surprised
what will hold.